My Pipeline Opinion

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now that time has passed, i can calmly reflect on the Pipeline Masters.  at that time, i was really happy with Seth’s performance, but i was also really disappointed in the WSL.  after Seth won his semifinal heat, they made him wait in the water for the final.  he was tired, thirsty, and extremely exhausted.  i could see it in his eyes when i was watching him through the binoculars.  they made him wait in the water, then they changed their mind and made him come in, run up the beach, get his jersey for the final, and paddle right back out.  while Kelly Slater got a 1 hour break from his semifinal heat, poor Seth had to go straight back out after his.  and if you haven’t surfed 12′ Pipeline before, you wouldn’t understand.   just to be out there takes a lot out of you mentally and physically.  you can ask any Pipeline guy and they will tell you.  so yes, Kelly had a big advantage.  i’m not making excuses or anything, but if it was the other way around, there’s no way Kelly would have allowed that to happen to him.  no way!   i asked Seth about it a few days after the contest and he said “i was ok, i was ready.”  that’s Seth being Seth.   that’s why everybody loves that kid.  no excuses from him and i love that. but i’m the Uncle that sees things from the outside and along with a lot of surfers i know, we all feel he should have been able to rest before the final.  but history is history so let’s move on.  i just need to vent a little.  and now i feel better.  haha…

that was one of the happiest moments in our lives.  i still feel the joy when people talk about that historic day at the Banzai Pipeline.  it will never be forgotten…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide