i am more fascinated with surfboards then i’ve been in my whole life. i look at it differently. i check the rocker, rails, fin placement, and weight. then when i put it under my arm, i can pretty much tell how it’s going to work. and the fun part is going out into the ocean and trying it! 
it was about 30 year ago when Mike Woo made me my first board. it was in a shed in his back yard in Palolo Valley. a long extension cord stretched from his house to operate his tools. he used a pencil to scribble some numbers on the wall. now, Mike lives in Bali, he designs surfboards through his computer at home, and the numbers are 1000% more accurate. it’s crazy how far designing surfboards has come. and it’s crazy how many surfboards i just ordered. haha. 
the food here is very healthy so i’m losing a lot of weight. it makes me realize how unhealthy the food is back home in America. i’m going to change my diet for sure..
surfspots like Uluwatu and Canggu are super crowded. but if you know where to look, you can find perfect empty waves like this right around the corner. i’ve been scoring some of the most peaceful sessions of my life…
