The Godson: Jackson Dorian

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went out for another beautiful morning at Bowls.  pink sky and clean conditions.  

and good waves too.

there is the State Championship contest at Bowls this week so all the best surfers from all the Hawaiian islands are here.    

Jackson Dorian just came back from Indonesia.  i was watching how he carried himself in the water.  not too aggressive, very friendly, always smiling, and hunting for the best wave.  his dad Shane Dorian taught him very well.  

the best way to gain respect is to surf good.  this kid will be on the WCT tour sometime soon.  he has the sponsors, parents, and passion to go all the way!  

after this wave, Jackson paddled back out with a big smile.  i remember that’s what Shane use to do at Backdoor.  i just love watching kids growing up to be just like their Daddy’s.  everybody loves Shane so i’m pretty sure everybody will love Jackson.  and on top of all of that, this kid is Kelly Slaters godson…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide