another epic morning in Hawaii. perfect conditions with a medium size South swell. surprisingly, today was much better than yesterday. but beware of the box jellyfish!
yesterday had 30-40 surfers because it was a Sunday. today had much less. i love Monday!
Dean with the shot of the day as Dana paddles out watching.
i use to be a drop knee sponger too so i appreciate the drop knee. it’s not that easy to control the board and pull into a barrel like this. timing and control is important.
and when you can time the wave and control your board, you can enter the surfers ultimate hole which is, the barrel!!!