i surfed for almost 3 hours and never caught a good wave this morning. i was in the wrong place at the wrong time i guess. sometimes it happens but only sometimes. i actually got a little frustrated because i have a magic board and want to catch all the good waves. when i paddled in, i told myself “tomorrow i’m foiling.” then i was happy again! haha.
as for the waves, it was still good. Gregg on a gem i was searching for all morning!
bottom turning while i’m trying to get out of the way.
if i have my camera, i don’t mind getting sprayed because i love these kind of photos. if i didn’t have my camera, i’d be pissed. haha.
after almost dying in Portugal and 8 months of rehabilitation, Joshua Moniz is back! the WSL gave him wildcards for the next 2 Challenger Series events. he left to Australia today and all i told him was “you know what you have to do. so go do it!” i’m pretty sure Josh understands his 2nd chance in life and he’s going to take full advantage of every single day…
