today was the perfect day to be in the middle of the ocean. i missed the feeling of freedom, and the feeling of the winds blowing at my face. and also missed the crystal clear water!
my foil buddy called me last night to go foiling so we were super excited to go out in the ocean find a perfect foiling wave. and yes we did!
omg, we scored! the conditions couldn’t be any better! we were like 2 kids loving the moment…
yesterday it took me 3 hours to catch 10 waves on my shortboard. today i took off on my very first wave, rode 10 continuous waves, and that one ride was 4 minutes long. i thought that i could have gone home a happy man already but i decided to ride 40 more waves. it felt good to be FREE again!!!
