i saw one of my buddies and he asked me “don’t you miss Backdoor?” i told him “not at all. i surfed there almost everyday for 25 winter seasons. i’ve gotten the best barrels of my life, i’ve gotten into fights, i’ve broken 50 boards, got hurt a lot, and almost died a few times. so no, i don’t miss it at all.” Neal Miyake caught some of the finest moments of my life that i’ll never forget…
one thing i miss is going to Japan. unfortunately the government still won’t allow foreigners in the country. it sucks because i’m not a foreigner, i’m Japanese! i miss driving through prefecture after prefecture, hanging out with friends, eating good food, and just loving the Japanese culture. some of the finest moments of my life that i’ll never forget…
