this is the first solid South swell of the year. when i paddled out, it was chest high. when i paddled in, it was way overhead. tomorrow should be bigger and better. in fact, all week will be better and better!
when ever i’m paddling back out, i always see people dropping in on each other. this is the life at Ala Moana Bowls. love it or leave it…
it’s hard to believe these South swells started way below Australia. it took over a week to arrive, but nobody’s complaining.
cool winter feeling this morning. it’s usually like this in February but with this weather, there are some amazing sunrises…
if i were a goofy footer, i’d be looking for these barrels all day long. the best view in the world!
