the South swell was still hanging around this morning. still overhead and perfect. 
some of the young surfers ripping. this kid came so close that he almost chopped off my fingers with his fins! but as a photographer, these are the kind of photos you want. 
then the World Champion and Olympic Gold medal super star Carissa Moore paddles out. i like to watch her presence in the ocean and how she hunts for waves. it’s so cool to see.
and when she catches one, everybody is watching.
from the side you can see her confidence and determination on every maneuver. 
and from the back you can see her spray flying high. a true champion, a good role model, and the sweetest girl you’ll ever meet…
