i wanted to take a break from the ocean today but when i woke up and saw the perfect Summer conditions, i couldn’t resist. the waves were smaller, but it was so beautiful!
the tide was really low for the last big swell. i’m glad i didn’t hit the reef too hard.
it was pretty empty and if you chose the right wave, you could score like this. last week was challenging, today was playful…
i found a box with my old ASP World Tour member cards from 1992-1997. the ASP (Association of Surfing Professionals) is now called the WSL (World Surf League.) i use to surf the same contests with guys like Tom Curren, Martin Potter, Dane Kealoha, Derek Ho, and other legends. i remember being the young guy that took the leftover waves. i was actually nervous and scared. haha…
