this morning was looking like a perfect Summer day! the ocean was absolutely beautiful!
the further up i position my foil, the more unstable everything gets. so today i put it all the way forward and it felt like i was riding a 5’2 fish surfboard out at 20′ Waimea Bay! it was so unstable that it felt super dangerous.
so taking off on these waist high waves felt like jumping off a 100 story building. so much adrenaline running in my body but i knew i had to keep calm. it’s crazy how a small adjustment can make a huge difference.
as you can see, the waves were absolutely perfect today! uncrowded too!
and look how clean the water was. you can see the reef and my foil gliding through the wave. cool!
my friend Randy was diving out there. thank goodness i didn’t run him over. that’s why it’s always good to have a bright float when you’re diving. it’s also the law…
