another amazing and beautiful day in Hawaii. new South swell started to come up so i was so excited to get out early…
this is probably the best point right wave on the South Shore. so when there’s a swell, there’s a lot of surfers. if you want to catch waves, you have to play the game. a game of being in the right spot at the right time. a game of dropping in on the right people. and a game of surfing faster than everybody else. i love the game!
i just started teaching this girl how to surf. a few more lessons and she’ll be surfing really good! young, smart, and very determined!
i just got the call up from the boys for the next mission! now i’m getting my equipment prepared for the huge swell coming! i’m so excited that i won’t be able to sleep. sleep or no sleep, i’ll be ready!
