omg, this morning was amazing! the waves were big, the conditions were good, and the rides were fast! we stayed out for 5 hours!!!
it’s pretty crazy how big the ocean is. when you see a guy that is 6’3 and 250lbs looking small like this, you know the ocean is big.
John Amundson is one of the first foilers in the world. and he’s probably the first foil board shaper too. he’s very smart and knowledgeable. when i have a conversation with him, i’m listening carefully to every word he says. and i learn a lot!!!
so i take off on the outside on my biggest wave of the day. it was big, long, and wild. i was going about 35mph trying to focus on surviving. then at the corner of my eye, i see this guy looking like King Kong coming straight for me from the channel. he cuts right in front of me laughs. it was Kaiborg. haha.
today John Amundson let me borrow his brand new 4’2 Firebolt and brand new Lift wing. it was the first time i tried a board that small and light. on my first wave, i was flying like Top Gun! i couldn’t believe the speed i was going. then when i fell on one, i thought i broke my shoulder. it’s like falling on concrete when you’re going that fast. next time i’m wearing my impact suit! yes, i’m still learning…
thank you boys for the fun in the ocean this morning. i went home and slept all day after that. my body is beat up…
