Chocolate Bowl

110

after 5 hours towing yesterday, i came home and slept for 5 hours.  then i heard a cute voice outside of my house.  it was Mateus!  so we went out for a date.  there is a delicious gelato shop down the street which we love.  then i went back to sleep for 5 hours and woke up at 3am ready for this beautiful day!

i watch this kid and observe everything he does.  the whole time i’m laughing so hard!  then Mateus asks me why i’m laughing?  i tell him “because you’re the cutest kid in the world and i love you so much!”  he says “ok.”  haha.

this kid brings so much joy to my life.  i could have a long or tough day but right when i see Mateus, i’m full of happiness…

my legs and back were really sore when i woke up this morning.  but i knew staying in bed wouldn’t have made it any better.  so i went surfing.  all i needed was the ocean to fix my body…

Bowls is one of the most perfect wave in Hawaii, BUT it’s also really tricky to chose that perfect wave.  today was very tricky so local knowledge went a long way.  i only got one good wave this morning but it was well worth it.  it always is…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide