this swell is very powerful and lasting a very long time. i thought this morning would be way smaller but there were still some nice sized sets! and the conditions couldn’t have been any better.
Lance Hookano is the regulator. where ever he surfs, he makes sure everybody is on their best behavior. i love surfing with him because there will be peace most of the time. but sometimes, there is war. and when there is war, you don’t want to be near this guy…
and Lance gets all the best waves where ever he goes. and yes, he’s a showman!
i wasn’t expecting waves like this today. and i’m pretty sure tomorrow will still be solid. this swell is one of the strongest South swells ever. and i can’t wait till it’s over because i’m totally burnt out. i haven’t surfed this much in my life!
