a beautiful Saturday morning and it was either surf with 30 surfers and wait my turn? or foil with 15 surfers and not wait my turn? since the swell is almost gone, that was an easy choice.
it doesn’t matter where i go when i have my foil. i just need a small knee high wave to get me started and once i’m up, nobody can stop me. i only stop when i run out of breath. haha.
always good to see the Uncles out having fun every single day. i respect these guys lifestyle so much and i hope i’m doing the same thing when i get to their age.
even though the waves are only waist to chest high, it still feels like i’m taking off on a 10′ wave. i love the feeling of speed!
i passed by Bowls on the way back and it still looked fun.
but with this many guys out, i wouldn’t have had fun today. i needed to get out of the cage and fly again…
