although Bowls is a perfect left barrel, it’s very tricky. you have to be in the right spot on the takeoff or the wave will run away from you.
and if the wave runs away from you, this is what you’ll miss. timing is everything!
when i was teaching a girl how to surf last week, she kept on falling or jumping off her surfboard at the end of the wave. i told her to properly ride the wave out and get back down to her surfboard. she asked “why?” i told her “because someday, your board will fly back at you and where it lands, nobody knows.” if you’re lucky like me, it will land on your ear. unlucky surfers get it in their eye. so yes, ride out your wave properly please. this happened years ago when i wasn’t thinking and jumped off my board. the wind caught it in the air and it came flying back at my head. my poor ear…
