back to yesterday again before i forget about yesterday again. the waves were small but if you have the right board, it’s not really small anymore. this is one of most magical small wave boards i’ve ever owned. it will make the worst days feel like the best.
i enjoy watching everyone trying out different surfboards and connecting to it. if you properly learn the basic fundamentals of surfing, you should be able to ride anything.
and each board works differently so you better keep calm and get ready for the excitement!
and when you find that magic board, you better keep it forever…
the WSL is now in El Salvador. they are having the event at this spot called Punta Roca. they call it the South America Jeffery’s Bay because the waves are very similar to South Africa’s Jeffery’s Bay. when this spot was still a secret to the rest of the world, i took an overnight flight from Hawaii and landed right into waves like this. it was perfect and only a couple guys out. I caught wave after wave until my legs couldn’t push anymore. very long rides and a nice barrel section. i’d have to say that Africa’s J-Bay is a way better quality wave, but not having to worry about freezing cold water and huge great white sharks is fine with me. haha. anyway, after this WSL event is over, Punta Roca will never be the same. surf camps, hotels, and thousands of surfers will head to El Salvador’s Surf City! but not me…
