i woke up at 2am this morning and was looking forward to surfing with the full moon! when we paddled out, the clouds were covering the moon so it was pretty dark.
when i asked Hajime-san yesterday if he wanted to surf in the dark, he looked at me like i was crazy. he’s never done it before so it does sound a little crazy. but once we got out, all you could see was the moons reflection. it was so beautiful!
when i was young, i use to moonlight surf after a long night of drinking. so everything was a blur. now that i don’t drink, i’m surfing everyday with a clear mind and it’s 100% better. i’m living in the present moment and it’s wonderful!
and when you live in the present moment, it looks something like this. i’m totally having the best moments of my life while the island is still sleeping…
