this is how dark it is when the clouds block the moonlight. all you can see is the moons reflection on the oceans surface and that’s how you watch the waves roll in. and when you see a good one, you turn around and go!
Hajime-san was connected to the ocean in the dark. he rode a few long ones and i bet must have felt amazing!
i still remember when i was in high school, i use to go with my brother and we use to sleep in the car at Rockpiles and surf the full moon swells. that was 40 years ago and i still love it till this day…
