Abunai InBetweens

133

paddling out to Bowls use to be very safe, but not anymore.  there are so many beginners out there so you better be alert when paddling out.

i was paddling on the side of these 2 beginners.  then they both looked at me and paddled right in front of me.  i saw a wave coming and i knew what was about to happen.

so i paddled on the side and watched as this wave broke on this girls head.

the wave pushed her off her board and her board just missed my head.  i knew it was coming so i just blocked it with my hand.  the girl grabbed her board and paddled back out.  no apology and didn’t even look at me because she didn’t even know what happened.  abunai…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide