we started off the morning paddling out in the dark. the waves were chest high and growing and growing throughout the day. nice rides into the sunrise.
then we went back out this afternoon and suddenly it’s overhead! big take offs and speedy rides!
it’s crazy how my new board works even in the big waves. so easy to take off and so easy to turn. magic!
some of the waves were so big that i had to dive under it. i love the washing machine feeling!
and the thick foam in the mouth is great too. haha.
Daisuke-san practiced all winter long on the small waves so his form is perfect. today was the biggest waves he rode so far and he rode it in style!
yesterday i did two twenty minute sessions in the hot sauna. next thing you know, i was sleeping like a baby at 6pm. today’s looking like the same routine. i hope i can stay up past 6pm thought. that’s a little bit too early to end the day. haha.
