as we were paddling out this morning, i was thinking “my eyesight must be getting better because i can see so many things i couldn’t see before.” i actually saw a turtle in the dark this morning. or maybe it was something else? haha…
even if you can’t see the wave, you can hear it breaking. the only thing is sometimes you can’t hear it until it smashes you on the head. haha.
i try to instill confidence into everyone i teach. this is confidence and confidence is cool…
Malcom always gets the best waves. lucky guy!
when you see the Queen of Bowls paddle for a wave, don’t even try to paddle for it. that’s the rule!
awesome wave Jeannie! that’s how you do it!
this afternoon was super good too! more wind, hotter than ever, but perfect rides. Daisuke-san looking so cool…
if you want to become a confident surfer, you have to surf on the big and crazy days. because if you can survive that, days like this are almost too easy. that’s how you build confidence, and that’s how you love life a lot more…