we all agreed it was a good day to try something different. and it turned to be the best decision for this 4th of July.
when we got out, there was absolutely nobody out??? i’ve surfed here over a hundred times and this was the first time it was only us all morning. and the waves and conditions were pretty dam good!
i always tell my students “paddle into every wave like it’s going to be your last wave of your life.” this is what i’m talking about!
and i always tell my students never to take off between 2 surfers. this wave i did that and almost killed myself. i was trying to watch one of the girls on the left. and the other one on the right.
and because i wasn’t looking forward, i had one of my heaviest wipeouts in a while.
thank goodness nobody got hurt. sorry girls, i will never do that again!
this girl has become a style master. calm, confident, and cool!
i honestly expected the waves to be tiny and crowded this morning because it’s a holiday. i was 100% wrong on that one. sometimes i like to be wrong…
