it was my first time surfing with Shizume-san so i could tell he was a little nervous. but right when we got in the ocean, a turtle popped right up between us and brought out the smile. right then i knew it was going to be a great session!
thank you little turtle for teaching us how be calm…
as we were paddling out, i saw a few waves and knew this was the best spot on the South shore. it was absolutely perfect!
Shizume-san on a Matsumoto shape by Rockdance. he was ripping!
i took off behind and enjoyed him doing this beautiful cutback. such a cool surfer who’s only going to get better and better!
i love the speed on my Woo twin fin. it’s so fast that i have to slow it down at times. and that’s a good thing.
i surfed the 4th of July holiday from sunrise to sunset. i was driving home with the biggest smile. happy and healthy life for everyone…