Follow the MOON

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today was full moon so i followed it to the beach.

it was so bright and beautiful.

paddling out watching the moon set over the horizon.  it’s like a dream.

my friend Dave use to foil every single day.  BUT, now he’s back into surfing and loves it.  we were laughing about how we came back to surfing.  but i’m sure we’ll be back on the foil when the waves go flat again.  haha.

when Mayuki is dirty, it bothers me so much that i can’t sleep at night.  so today i skipped my afternoon nap time and went to take care of my baby.  cleaned her from bottom to top.

the tide was rising fast and so was the swell.  then the current started to get really strong.  i had to hold on tight with one hand and scrub with the other.

it’s dangerous to clean the bottom when it’s rough because the boat is bouncing and the propellers can chop you.  but when i start something, i finish it.  after i finished, i had so tired and had a headache.  i think i got seasick for the first time???   haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide