60th Year of life: “Kanreki!”

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there were still some leftover overhead sets this morning at Bowls.  conditions were really good.  the talk in town is about the historic mega South swell that is supposed to hit tonight.  the forecasters are calling for 15-20′ faces.  i have 4 boards already in my car ready for anything. BUT, i’m not expecting anything either.  we shall wake up and see.  i’m guessing tomorrow will still be small and Sunday will be “The Day!”

Pat practicing the takeoffs for this weekends swell.

Chuck Andrews with his brand new Dove Wetsuit!  you’re looking good Uncle Chuck!

a few friends gathering for a great time.

omg, i love gyoza parties!

Happy 60th Birthday Toda-san!  so happy to spend this moment with you.  the 60th year of life is called “kanreki.”  it is celebrated as a rebirth or re-entry into childhood.  so let us be kids again!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide