i met with Carter and Kimo on the beach to paddle out for one of the biggest and best sessions ever at Big Rights. we’ve been doing this for 35 years and many more to come.
this is what surfing is all about. summer, friends, surf, and good times…
it’s really tricky to get out to Big Right’s because there is no channel. the only way is to go through the waves and hope you don’t break your board on the way out.
this was my first wave and it was very lovely. i want to thank my secret photographer on the beach for documenting this historic session. i felt like i was surfing Backdoor. i’m sure you will hear the stories of this day for years to come…
