In House Campfire

186

i thought the waves were going to be super small this morning so i wasn’t expecting anything.  i learned a long time ago that when you have no expectations, only good things happen.  and yes, a good thing happened because there were waves!  Tommy flying down the line…

not only were the waves good, the conditions were perfect.  beautiful long rides all morning long. 

after surfing double overhead waves this past swell, this girl became very calm.  and calm equals cool…

went back out this afternoon for Round 2 and Toda-san was out ripping!  

but Daisuke-san caught the best waves and longest rides.  he’s today’s heat winner!

last, when i use to go to the Moniz house, i use to see the funniest things.  here is young Joshua roasting a marshmallow on the stove.  pretty smart if you ask me.  haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide