sometimes in a day, you will only get once chance. so when that chance comes, you better deliver. for the past 7 years, i’ve been stressing to this student that when i say “GO” you better GO! sometimes she goes, and sometimes she doesn’t. when she goes, she learns something regardless if she made it or not. but when she doesn’t go, she didn’t learn a thing. so recently, she’s been going whether the wave is knee high or 20′. and that is making her good…
this morning was super small. maybe waist high at the biggest and very slow. we where having fun but nothing special. my student happened to be on the outside peak at Bowls when the set of the day came. i yelled “GO!!!!” she turned, paddled her hardest, and rode the biggest and best wave of the day.
luckily i had my camera so i started filming. she popped up at the perfect time.
knees bent, looking forward, and very calm.
she made it look pretty easy.
then she starts doing a bottom turn.
it was a beautiful thing to see.
as i went over the wave, i saw her turn right and fly down the wave.
that was the biggest and best wave of the morning. that was her golden chance and she took it. if she didn’t, she would have probably regretted this for a while. but she did so she was smiling in the car all the way home. and will probably be smiling in her sleep tonight. haha.
