Carter at Bowls this morning. nice wave!
when you have 5 surfers paddling for the same waist high wave, that means it’s very aggressive and crowded. where was everybody when the waves were 10′?
we went back out for Round 2 this afternoon and the waves and crowd was 100% better. longer cleaner rides, and only 2 surfers per wave. this was one of the two.
Toda-san got a few long rights.
and Takami-san surfing with style.
ever since i took my 2 students out to the biggest day in the history at Bowls, they are now very brave. waves like this are too easy for them. i don’t have to say “GO” anymore, they just GO!!!
