well, we surfed the past 55 days and never missed a day. somedays we even surfed twice so i’d say we totaled about 80 sessions. this girl got a magic board, got really good, experienced the biggest swell ever, met Carissa Moore, lived the Hawaiian local lifestyle, and probably has memories of a lifetime. i’m super proud of her accomplishments and i’m sure she will be smiling for a long time to come. and i’m also sure she will be the darkest Japanese girl in Tokyo. haha…
since Covid is rising worldwide and Japan won’t let me into their country anytime soon, i’m now researching a trip to Taiwan. the waves are super good, everything is cheap, and the food is some of the best in the world. it’s been 5 years since we surfed this perfect barreling wave, and i’m sure there are a lot of empty barrels waiting for me. we shall see…
