the waves were super good again this morning. a lot of the guys were saying it’s the best in weeks. not the biggest, but for sure the cleanest. perfect lefts and rights at Bowls all morning long. i got to ride behind my student today and loved watching this perfect wave.
look way in the distance and you will see a guy raising his two hands in the air. that is Toda-san cheering us on!
Takami-san has a really good surfing style. it’s very smooth.
good to see Shane out today at Bowls. a really nice guy if you know him, but a little scary if you don’t. a very big and powerful surfer!
last night i slept at 6pm. tonight too. goodnight!
