this afternoon was so beautiful!!! still some good waves and not too many people out.
the afternoons have been good because the tide is higher. that makes the waves cleaner and longer. BUT, there are some surfers that shouldn’t be out there. it’s very dangerous!
sometimes there is a traffic jam. sometimes you get run over. so you have to play defense surfing.
and sometimes you almost get a surfboard in your face. omg, this one was way too close!!!
but at the end of the day, everybody is happy and that’s all that matters. have a good night!