the waves were super weird yesterday. some spots were flat and other spots were catching all of the chest high swell. i waited patiently all day for the tide to come up because i felt like i needed some speed. and as soon as i was deep enough for my foil to clear, i was flying high! i love this feeling…
what’s next for this surfer girl? well, in my opinion, i think she’s ready to get barreled. and how i know is that her take offs are fast, her pop ups are perfect, and her confidence is super high now. so we shall see very soon…
this was one of the big days at Big Rights. this is probably the easiest spot to get barreled at. the trick to making barrels at this spot is riding the right board and catching the right wave. so i’m thinking i can put a girl on the right board and if i put her on the right wave, all she has to do is bottom turn and the barrel will go over her head whether if she likes it or not. haha. then all she has to do is hang on for her life!
