omg, when the waves get small like this, it’s chaos. most surfers have no manners, they don’t know the rules, and don’t know how to share. it’s days like this when people get hurt. i’m always playing defense when it’s like this because if you don’t pay attention, someones surfboard will whack you in the face. and it’s nobody’s fault but yourself. 
todays boot camp was about working on emotions. no matter what surfboard you’re on or no matter how big the waves are, you better be calm. the more calm you are, the better you end up surfing. it’s pretty simple. 
and when you’re riding the wave, it’s important to be present. live in the moment and you will be able to enjoy the ride to the fullest. act on emotions and you will either fall, or forget what you even did on the wave. haha. look how calm and cool this ride is. i love it! 
when i’m taking photos, i get smashed sometimes. so smashed that my feet are flying over my head. haha. 
i was explaining how to keep calm with this girl too. she ended up being so calm that she could smile the whole ride.
next time you go surfing, try to keep calm and even smile. surfing will instantly become a hundred times easier, and a thousand times better…
