Surf Trip: The Drop IN!

169

there are unspoken rules when traveling to secluded surf spots around the world.  first of all, if there are locals, they get to go first no matter what.   but if there aren’t locals out, you take turns.  it doesn’t matter what country you’re from, you take turns.  i’ve gotten into many arguments and even fights because there are some surfers that think they are more entitled than you because of their nationality or skin color.  most experienced and good surfers know this rule so there are usually no problems.  BUT, there is always one idiot that thinks they own the ocean where ever they go.  here is an example of that…

we’re out at HT’s in the Mentawai islands.  it was very uncrowded so many waves for everyone.  

Toda-san was waiting the longest so this was pretty much his wave.  everything looking good from the start.  

then here is where it gets interesting.  even though Toda-san is practically on the wave already, 2 other guys start to paddle for the same wave. 

that guy with the white rash guard is totally clueless.  he thinks it’s a contest so the guy with inside position gets the wave.  sorry but this is no contest. 

the guy on the shoulder finally looks and pulls back.   Toda-san is already starting his turn down the line and the guy behind is still trying to go. 

if i was Toda-san, i would have kept on going too.  

now the guy in back is probably yelling to get Toda-san off the wave.

but Toda-san is fully committed and isn’t looking back.  

keep on going Toda-san!

i would never try to ride a wave behind a SUP.  especially when the nearest hospital is 12 hours away.  

usually the inexperienced end up getting smashed by Mother Nature.  

and the stronger and wiser man comes out the winner.  good job Toda-san.  never give in!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide