Matsu sent me these photos of a magazine he found in Japan. this was surfing a super typhoon on a secret island a short plane ride away from Okinawa. i’ll never forget that day because this wave showed up right before dark. i surfed for 30 minutes before it got dark, paddled in over the razor sharp shallow reef, and a ice cold Orion beer with friends was waiting for me. it was a historical swell at one of the most secluded islands in the world. people think this is Backdoor but i can say that it’s 10x more dangerous. it was a wave normal people don’t surf because if you don’t make the barrel, you will hit the reef and get cut up like sashimi. high risk, high reward. got the cover shot! 
there were a couple advertisements from my sponsors inside. i surfed this perfect barrel in Samoa for 7 days straight. i thought this was normal for Samoa but a bunch of my friends who went there year after year told me that the size and conditions like this are rare. so yeah, i think i scored again! 
then this advertisement was at a spot right here on the South shore. it’s one of the worst waves to surf, but the best waves for photos. i might go shoot out there again!
