K’Surf Dreams

161

right after the 2011 earthquake/tsunami, we drove up to Iwate on one of our missions.  we stopped by to see Sugimoto-san and he showed us where his surf shop once was.  the tsunami was over 40′ so can you imagine how much water was rushing here?  look at that wood that’s stuck in on the top of the tree.  crazy.

i still remember this day so clearly because i was in total shock.  i couldn’t believe how big the tsunami was and i couldn’t believe the power of the ocean.  it destroyed everything in its path.  this day was raining and 2 degrees freezing cold and i didn’t care because my body and soul was already numb.  

i look back now and think what i saw with my own eyes.  i saw devastation and my heart hurt so much.  and when i heard the stories of that tragic day, my heart was broken.  and stayed broken for a very long time after.

BUT, it’s stories of survivors that heal all wounds.  Sugimoto-san started cleaning up the beach right after the tsunami.  he and the community got together and moved forward.  they wanted to get the beach back so they proposed a plan to the government and now, their dream has come true.  11 years later, the beach is back, the community is enjoying it, and things are looking so bright.  i respect surfers and survivors like Sugimoto-san because it’s people like this that make the difference.  i can’t wait to go back to Iwate someday to see the smiles again.  thank you Matsu for sending me this video.  i was tearing when i was watching this…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide