all of a sudden, it seems like we’re transitioning from summer to fall. this is when the weather gets unpredictable and the winds start to slow down. the North shore will slowly start to wake up and the South shore will start to slow down.
but no slowing down yet. this South swell was way bigger than expected. there were some solid double overhead sets this morning. and the conditions were perfect!
Pat was out there charging hard! today was the best i’ve seen Bowls in a very long time.
this was also the first time i connected again and again with Pat. a super cool Uncle that loves to surf every single day!
Jimmy had the inside corner all to himself. i saw him doing 4 turns on waves that looked like Macoronis in the Mentawais…
