Summer is over so all the kids are back to school from this week. yeah! The parking lot and ocean was pretty empty these past 2 days.
Reo Inaba paddled out super early. i really like this kid. he surfs super good, he’s very respectful, he’s very humble, and he saved my nephews life. 
Reo is good enough to be on the WCT tour. i think the only reason he’s not on tour already is because he’s too nice. and you can’t be nice if you want to win heats on that level. if he was an asshole like me, he would be making way more heats. haha. anyway, Reo went to the airport and flew back to Japan right after this epic off the lip!
when Joshua came out to Bowls this morning, i was so happy!!! i watched him all morning because i wanted to see how he surfed this wave. and just by watching, i learned so much. i learned how he attacks the wave and how he twists his body like this on the bottom turns. tomorrow i’ll be copying that. haha.
when the waves at Bowls get big and perfect like this, all the locals are out. it’s very calm because everyone is very respectful. we all know the rotation of waves and mannerism without saying any words. it’s pretty cool…
