deleting more photos so better post it first. here is one of many epic morning surfs of 2022. isn’t this beautiful?
i’m having fun taking out friends to surf again. the experience, the laugher, and the excitement is amazing. days like this we will never forget.
because i take photos, i’m constantly analyzing surf style. i learned that by coming home and checking the photos i take. most of them i end up throwing away because something doesn’t look right. you can be on the best wave of your life but if your style doesn’t look good, i’ll throw away your photo. i throw away thousands every year. you can be a good surfer and if your style isn’t right, i could never get a good photo of you even if i tried. but when your arms are in the right place, your knees are aligned and bent, and you’re looking in the right direction, every single photo i take of you will come out beautiful like this.
want to thank Neal Miyakefor getting this shot of me on the last swell. this was the day i was surfing at Bowls when it felt like i was surfing in the Mentawai’s. not often it gets like this, but when it does, i’m pretty content…
