good evening. don’t tell anybody, but there was a little south swell today in town. i surfed bowls 2x total of 4 1/2 hours. caught so many waves and had so many fun. i mean much fun. i’m burnt, i’m tired, and i’m going to sleep. it’s day 2 of 2009 and i feel like it’s february already. i’m going to charge my batteries tonight and have another day of surf tomorrow. and if your still waiting for my emails, please wait a little more. i’m freakin tired…. good night…
clark little sent me an awesome christmas card. and now i just got this crazy awesome new years card. gosh, i said it before and i’ll say it again. nobody in the world comes close to clark little when it comes to shore break water photos. check out this photo of our recent brown water out on the north shore. freaking artistic, and freaking awesome… he didn’t say where this was but i know where. and sorry i ain’t telling. anyway, clark little’s work is getting huge in japan and if you look at his website, you’ll know why. and it’s now translated into japanese. check it out…
**CLICK HERE FOR CLARK LITTLE PHOTOGRAPHY…
