wow! this morning was amazing! perfect little waves and perfect golden sunrise. look at Ryu-san go!!!
i have the most fun on the small days because it’s super peaceful and there’s absolutely no competition. just locals taking turns and dropping in on each other for fun. here is Matt riding in front of Malcom while they’re laughing all the way.
i was watching a couple of longboarders catching wave after wave and just paddling right around me. usually i would say something but since the waves were tiny, i just thought to myself “ok, next time i’m on my foil, there will be no mercy!” haha.
Ryu-san and i went back out this afternoon for Round 2 of Boot Camp. i was being very critical of every little detail. the takeoff is the most important part of the wave because the better you take off, the better you will ride that wave.
look how clean the water was! i could see fish, turtles, and even a lost surfboard fin! we were talking about traveling and realized that Hawaii is the surfers paradise of the world!
after many years of Boot Camp with Ryu-san, this time i implemented a new phase of teaching. and by the way he’s surfing and smiling, it seems to be working really good! we can’t wait till tomorrow!
