Fake Surf News

137

according to the surf report, there was supposed to be a South swell this morning.  sorry guys and girls, no South swell today!  Bowls was so crowded that i didn’t even paddle out to say hi to my friends.  i stayed far away.

and look at Rockpiles.  i counted over 70 surfers out there.  in the world we live in, i wouldn’t be surprised if someone sued the surf report people.  imagine how many surfers didn’t go to work this morning?  haha…

small waves doesn’t matter for us because if you have the right board, you will have a wonderful time.

this surfers is progressing wave by wave.   and it’s looking good!

we checked Diamond Head in the afternoon and it was looking lovely.  twice as bigger than Bowls and much fewer people.

i snapped this shot and my camera died again.  omg, what’s wrong with GoPro?

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide