it’s pretty cool to see our endless Summer extending into September. and it’s pretty cool to see the regulars out every single morning no matter what size.
Boot Camp is going really good. not as much yelling so my student must be doing it right. haha.
another morning session of beautiful surfing. and on top of that, this newborn surfer rode his best left of his life at Bowls. it was a big smile after that. then a nap before round 2.
we gambled today by going to Big Rights. i thought the swell was too small and the tide was too high, BUT, i was totally wrong. there were some excellent waves and absolutely nobody out! i sent my student out before me and when i got out there, he already caught the best right hand wave of his life!
then he caught 4 more after that. i was sitting in the inside watching him having his solo dream surf session. he said it was the best session of his life.
the cutback is looking smooth too. today he caught his best left of his life in the morning at Bowls, and this afternoon he caught his best right of his life at Big Rights. i’m sure he’s smiling in his dreams right now. good job solider! haha.
