this morning the waves were super good! and when it gets super good, everybody wants a good wave. it was a very tight lineup out at overhead Bowls. 
i just love the fisheye lens because you can feel the action. here’s Jimmy coming in fast. 
he turned right in front of my camera and this is what it looked like. super cool! 
my students ask me why some people don’t wear leashes. there are many reasons. one is it gets in the way. another is it causes a little drag. another is some surfers think their too cool. another is some surfers don’t fall. in my opinion, wearing a leash is always recommended. i saw this longboard girl surfing recklessly without a leash at Bowls. she was falling, she was letting her board go, and she was not looking around. on this wave, she almost killed that surfer paddling out. so in this case, this girl should definitely be wearing a leash…
