another perfect day of surf! Ala Moana Bowls lefts and rights overhead and perfect! check out Carter on the very nice right!
sometimes the rights are better than the lefts. on this particular wave, that was the case.
i went over the waves and was waiting for Carter’s spray.
and there it was!
after surfing my whole life, i’m the happiest i’ve ever been right now. i want to surf more than ever and want to catch every wave i possibly can. i don’t care for photos, for fame, or to impress anyone. that was my job for 30 years and it burnt me out mentally and physically. all i want now is to connect with myself with the ocean. and if a photographer happens to be there, that’s a bonus. thank you Neal Miyake for the shot, and thank you Joshua Moniz for letting me try your Magic Board! you guys are awesome!
