it was a very beautiful calm Saturday morning. a perfect sunrise with perfect waves. 
Rockpiles looked really good. 
this little out of season South swell is lasting very long. i actually got one of my better barrels out at Bowls today. 
i love to surf with Lance Hookano. it’s been 35 years since i’ve met him so we’re practically like brothers. and he’s like my bodyguard too. when we use to surf at Backdoor together, Lance use to say “Go Kirby” and nobody would paddle for that wave. if they did, he would yell at them. haha. 
62 years young and still ripping! always good to see you Lance.
