Two Time Delight

100

in the past 10 years, i probably surfed with Isaiah Moniz only twice.  i was just too busy with work and the timing was never right.  but just in the past week, i already got to surf with Isaiah twice!  so when he paddled out to Bowls, i sat in the inside and watched him surf Bowls like how it supposed to be surfed.

as i watch the way he reads the wave, i can almost picture exactly what he’s going to do.  in this case, i knew he was going to put as much a power he could into this turn.

i knew he was there, and he knew i was there.  so as he approached me, he did this beautiful power turn just for me.  haha.  and i loved it!

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide